DBB pattern instructions, draft

Drool Bucket Baby Pattern Instructions:

Supplies: Absorbant fabric cuch as bamboo/cotton fleece, flannel, Sherpa or terry. Knit fabrics such as Bamboo Velour, bamboo Interlock, cotton knits (prints or otherwise), terry or sherpa.
Water soluable or air soluable marking PEN (pencils don’t do a very good job of marking snap and elastic holes).
Fabric scissors.
Schmitz 90/14 stretch needles for fitted diapers. For diapers using PUL use a ball point needle.
Thread, polyester thread such as maxi-lock or gutterman is best. If using a serger you may also use wooly nylon in the loopers.
Elastic, lastin is preferred but also may substitute other elastics. Fold Over Elastic may also be used and applied to the edge of the diaper or to a cover.
Optional supplies: Snaps and snap press or pliers (KAM preferred), Touch tape or aplix (velcro brand is not recommended), sm folding or jack-knife (for removing snaps), can of air (for threading sergers, blowing velour fuzz out of machines, killing spiders…), rotary cutter and blades.

The main bodies of fitted diapers consist of 3 layers of stretchy or knit material.
The outer layer will be what is seen when the baby wears the diaper. This can either be a knit print or another material like bamboo velour or bamboo terry (If you want to make a snappi-able diaper, use a terry or knit print for the outer layer, terry will resist snappi damage longer). A high quality fleece or PUL may be used for All-in-one diapers.
The hidden layer is a stabilizing layer and can consist of a terry or knit in any fabric, however using bamboo or cotton velour as the hidden layer makes it difficult to sew and a little too thick, greatly increasing dry time, there is plenty of absorbency in the soaker layers.
The Inner layer is what is next to the baby’s skin. You can use a knit, velour or a stay dry option like micro fleece or suede cloth.
The soaker is a 2 position soaker. This should be made of four layers. These layers do not need to be a knit or stretchy; a woven material like bamboo or cotton fleece is fine. The preferred arrangement would be 3 layers of Organic Bamboo Fleece topped with organic Bamboo Velour. However you may use any absorbent material like flannel, Sherpa or terry. The top should be soft as it will be next to your baby’s skin; the best choices are velour or a stay dry option like micro fleece or suede cloth. However a bamboo/cotton fleece, Sherpa or terry are also acceptable.
The toddler doublers should be 4 layers of absorbent material such as bamboo/cotton fleece. It is optional to add socket snaps to snap this into the back of the soaker, but highly recommended as it prevents the user from losing the doubler in the toilet when shaking off solids. Cuts should be a 5x12 rectangle.

When cutting make sure the stretch goes with the wings. You want your wings to stretch around the baby giving him/her better maneuverability and a longer fit. When cutting the soaker or doubler it does not matter which way the stretch and grain run as the ability to stretch is not needed.

To make a DBB Multi-Size Diaper:
Cut out Your 3 body layers, your 4 soaker layers and your 4 doubler layers. You can sew the diaper body, the soaker or the doubler first, it doesn’t matter. Here we are going to start with the soaker and doublers.
The soaker:
Lay the 3 Bamboo Fleece (or other absorbent) layers together.
Apply the 4 stud snaps thru all 3 layers.


Lay your top layer on top of the soaker covering the snap caps.
Stitch straight down the center. This keeps the layers stable while sewing AND while washing. It also creates an indentation that helps to hold in messes.
Serge around the edges and tie off your ends.

The doubler:
Lay all 4 layers together and serge around the outside, rounding the corners as you go.
Apply socket snaps at the top edges thru all layers (optional)


Sewing the body of the diaper:
Serged version:
Lay the hidden layer and the outer layer together.
Apply toddler rise snaps thru these two layers.
Flip and add the inner layer and pin.
Add the infant rise and soaker snaps to the diaper.

Also mark where the elastic should start and stop.

Apply center stitching down the body of the diaper. This helps keep the fabric stable while sewing and while washing. Stitching can be twin stitching, zig-zag, 3-step zig-zag or any other stitch depending on how “decorative” you want the stitching to be.

Working with the inner layer facing you, Apply elastic. Using a blind feel method, apply elastic using a 3-step zig-zag stitch, 1” from the edge. Have your machine setting set to a stitch length of 3 and a width of 5 to 5.5. Make sure you anchor your elastic well! I use a straight stitch forward then backward for an 1/8” then overlap that with a tight 3 step zig-zag to the starting and stopping points.

Apply the elastic in between the inner and hidden layers.

Pull the elastic until taught, but not too tight. This will take a little practice. Soon, you will get a feel for how it should feel. Too loose and the legs will be too loose on smaller babies, too tight and the legs will be too tight on toddlers and be prone to breaking.
Once the elastic is applied to the back, front and both legs, trim all threads.
Next, serge around the outside of the diaper and tie off the ends.

Add wing snaps, DBB label (optional) and your care label (optional)
Viola! Your diaper is complete!


Turning and topstitching your diaper.
*If you do not have a serger you may turn and topstitch the diaper.
The soaker/Doubler:
Apply snaps to the 3 fleece layers as listed above. Lay your top layer WRONG side out on the soaker covering the STUDS. Pin in place.
Sew all but 1/2” around the outside.
Turn right-side out. Your top layer should now be facing right side out and covering the snap caps.
Use a blunt object like a chopstick or thin dowel to help smooth out the edges inside.
Sew the hole closed and topstitch around the outside of the soaker.
Apply a straight stitch down the center of the soaker.
Doubler:
Lay the top layer WRONG side out, sew all but 1/2” and turn, topstitch just like the soaker.
Add socket snaps (optional)
The diaper:
Apply toddler rise snaps thru the outer and hidden layers.
Lay your Inner layer WRONG side out on top of your outer layer.

Serge or sew all around the diaper leaving 1” open.
Apply elastic to the outer layer of the diaper (print or pul side) This will give the leg gussets a natural curve in, once turned right-side out, especially handy for AIO’s, keeping the inner layer IN and PUL layer holding wetness in.

Turn the Diaper right-side out. Use a blunt object like a chopstick to help smooth out corners inside.
Sew the hole closed and top stitch.
Apply Center stitching, stretching the legs out as you go (this may take some practice).

Apply Infant rise snaps, soaker and wing snaps and all labels.
Diaper is now complete.
Photo of a fully T&T Diaper:

Making a Semi T&T diaper:
Prepare diaper as if you are going to topstitch.
Serge or sew the leg gusset area.


Apply elastic to the leg area on the outer side.

Turn the diaper.
Pin (Note: this is going to take a lot of pins and patience to keep the fabric where you want it while sewing the rest of the diaper).
Top stitch the leg gussets.
Next you can either apply the infant rise and soaker snaps or center stitch. I personally apply the snaps first to help stabilize the fabric before center stitching.
Apply elastic to the waist and front of the diaper as you would a serged diaper.
Serge around the wings/back and the front of the diaper separately. Tie off ends.

Apply remaining snaps and labels.
Finished semi T&T MS diaper:





To make a One-Size or newborn diaper:
(Instructions are for a serged version. For T&T and semi T&T, read the instructions for the Muti-size diaper and apply techniques and skills appropriately. You can always contact me for help!)
*Apply all snaps EXCEPT the wing and soaker snaps thru the outer and hidden layers. This will keep the snaps hidden and away from baby’s skin.
*Flip and lay the inner layer. Pin and mark as necessary.
*Apply center stitching and soaker snaps thru all layers.
*Apply elastic following the blind method described in the Multi-Size directions.
*Serge the diaper.
*Apply the wing snaps and labels.
*Attach the NB size soaker and there you GO!







Bonus tips and tricks:
*Night-time set up: Cut 7 bamboo fleeces (or the like) soaker cuts and one velour or micro fleece cut. Cut 4 bamboo fleece doubler cuts.
Straight-stitch and serge together 4 fleece cuts. Straight-stitch and serge together the remaining 3 fleece cuts and the velour/microfleece0.0 cut. Apply soaker snaps thru ALL 4 fleece layers. Lay the soaker made with 3 fleece layers and a velour/micro fleece top, on top of the snapped soaker. Use a straight stitch to attach the two at the top. NOTE: Use a STRONG needle for this.
Serge the doubler and apply socket snaps. For an infant use only the double soaker and for toddlers use both the double soaker AND the doubler for a great tight time solution!


*Your patterns can be used for pockets too! Leave out the hidden layer and keep the back open. Use a quality fleece like Malden Mills or a PUL, and a stay dry inner like micro fleece or suede cloth. Another pocket or T&T diaper trick is to serge the diaper while inside out using a narrow 3 thread serge. Use your inner most needle and the 2 loopers. This gives you the best fit as it only uses the included ¼” seam allowance.
*Velcro may be substituted for snaps.
* Go closure-less! Use a knit or terry outer and use a snappi instead of snaps or Velcro giving a great fit and no “velcro conga line” in the wash.

CO-OP’s/Online Fabic shops and other helpful links:
The Best online shop around is hand’s down got to be www.naturesfabrics.com Join her co-op on yahoo groups under Nature’s Fabrics and you will get special run fabrics not listed on her store and a discount code for 20% off everything in her store. There are other places to get the same fabrics that may be “slightly” cheaper but all will have you waiting months instead of days for your fabric and may or may not care if they ship 1 yd of fabric in a priority box which will cost you $10+ is shipping charges instead of the $2.50 to send first class or in a $5 flate rate envelope. Jeanne is also AWESOME to work with! If you want a certain type of fabric she will work with you to get it. Say you want organic cotton fleece and velour instead of bamboo’s, just ask! She may be able to help! (oh and NO I do not work for her or get any royalties, I just LOVE this woman!) She also certifies her fabrics.
Other good co-ops: Formerly thisendup now known as sewitseams on yahoo groups. They hold a large variety of co-ops, fabric, snaps, elastics, thread other notions, patterns and other things such as homeschooling supplies etc. She also runs some exclusive prints that you can ONLY get thru this co-op. Also most things take a couple months to get, some things a year. Things that take about a year are custom to her group and you will know ahead of time that it is a custom mill from China and will take a long time to get. She also has everything lead/phalate/ oeko tek certified.
WAHMFabrics on yahoo groups. This is for WAHM’s ONLY. If you are not a WAHM she won’t add you. She sells the fabric AT COST from the supplier taking no co-op/cut fees or mark ups. She does this to help fellow WAHM’s. Fabrics may take weeks or months for her to get and cut and to you, but is a cheaper alternative to nature’s fabrics.
Momufactured on yahoo groups is the cheapest place to buy quality Bamboo’s in bulk. Last time I checked Bamboo velour was $6.50/yd and Bamboo fleece was $7.50/yd. She also does killington flannel, and other bamboo’s (terry, heavy weight fleece etc). Comes in 50 yd rolls (sometimes 25’s) and is about $.50 to $1/yd to ship. You need a Fedex account to ship. She also has certs and insures all shipments. (if you’ve gotten fabrics from Me the Bamboo Fleece and Bamboo Velour all comes from her).
A few others that are note worthy: By the yard n more on yahoo groups. Lovin’ bundles on yahoo groups, WAHMChatter on yahoo groups, www.sewzannes.com, www.thesnapstore.com, www.KAMsnaps.com